I love Mini-Nina! This newest Modkid pattern might just be my favorite because of its varied looks. The sleeveless top works with the included “Easy Peasy Skirt” and also looks terrific with the Mini-Sophie pants found in both the Mini-Frida and Mini-Kyoko patterns. The short sleeved version can be worn with or without the waist tie, and the tie can be knotted in front, or bow-tied in the front or back. The faux placket adds a bit of variety and you can embellish it as you wish, buttons, pintucks or whatever! These versatile tops will also be fashionable when paired with the upcoming Mini-Sophie cargo pants and shorts…just wait for these coming Mini-Modkid patterns!
I thought I’d create another version of the long-sleeved style, with shirring on the sleeves and at the waist. As you can see from the picture, our Mini-Nina’s sleeves almost bell out with the shirring–now, that’s super cute! Instead of hemming the sleeves and the shirt bottom, I used the serger rolled hem and some contrast decorative thread. So, just how do you add shirring to Mini-Nina? Follow these simple steps for a knock-out top for your favorite dolly!
Cut out the pattern pieces, as instructed, for the long sleeved version. You’ll have to get your serger AND your sewing machine going. Set your serger for a rolled hem and finish the hem of each sleeve. If you don’t have a serger, you’ll have to finish all your hems with a very narrow 1/8″ + 1/8″ hem.
With a washable marker or chalk, mark a line across each sleeve on the right side of the fabric, 3 1/2″ from the bottom. This will be the lowest row of shirring. On the top front and back, mark the position where the side ties should be and draw a line from edge to edge. This will be the lowest row of the shirring on the body of the top.
Hand wind an empty bobbin with elastic thread (not elastic bead). Don’t wind it too tightly. You’ll need to insert your bobbin taking special care to be sure the elastic thread is caught in the tension unit of your sewing machine. If you have a Baby Lock machine with a drop-in, tangle-free bobbin, there’s a trick to seating the bobbin properly. Slide off the plastic bobbin case slide plate before you place the bobbin. Snap the elastic thread securely in the tension unit, and then, turn the handwheel toward you to bring up the bobbin thread. Then, you can reposition the plastic slide plate.
Sewing on the right side of the fabric, stitch one row of straight stitching on the line you’ve marked on each sleeve. I like to take a few stitches and then backstitch a couple stitches, so the elastic is secure. I’ve found that the “default” setting on my machine (tension and stitch length) works okay for me, but you might want to experiment for the best setting on your machine. As you stitch, you don’t need to stretch anything, but be sure to keep the sleeve piece smooth as you stitch. You’re tempted to use the cutter on your machine, but don’t, because the elastic thread will spring back and may fall out of the tension unit. So, backstitch, pull your thread to the top, leaving about 6″ of that elastic hanging out and snip.
Stitch a second row about 3/16″ from the row you’ve already stitched. (That’s a smidge less than 1/4″.) I put this second row toward the sleeve cap and use my presser foot as a guide to keep the two rows parallel. As you stitch this second row, you now need to put a little pull to keep the sleeve smooth as you stitch. These two rows don’t really “gather” up as you are expecting. Don’t be over-anxious. We’ll shrink things up when we’re all done!
Following the pattern directions, attach the sleeves to the shirt front and back, remembering to finish the seam allowances with a serger or zigzag (I like a 3-thread narrow serged finish for this project.)
Follow the pattern directions and stitch ONLY one side seam, from the end of the sleeve to the bottom of the top. You’ll be sewing right over the two rows of sleeve shirring you stitched. Be sure to get those little ends of the elastic thread smooth, and laying toward the raw edge. Without a serger (which will cut the excess thread off as it finishes the seam), you’ll have to use a scissors to trim those ends of elastic thread that extend past the seam allowance. Finish the seam allowance with your serger or a zigzag stitch. Hem the bottom edge of your Nina top to match the hem on the sleeves, using the rolled hem on your serger and the same decorative thread, or with a simple very narrow hem on the sewing machine.
As you did on the sleeve, stitch a row of shirring along the marked line, from the raw side edge (backstitch), across the front and back, finishing with some backstitching at the other raw side edge.
Add 3 more rows of shirring, about 3/16″ apart. You will add the rows above the first row of shirring, toward the neck edge of the top.
Following the pattern directions, stitch the other side seam, carefully lining up your hem along the sleeve and the bottom. Sew right over the cut edges of your elastic thread. Then, finish the seam allowance with your serger or a zigzag stitch. This will further secure the rows of shirring. If you don’t use a serger to finish this edge, you’ll have to cut the little noodles of elastic that are extending beyond your raw edge! Without a serger to secure all those loose ends, I may be tempted to stitch the 1/4″ seam a second time for reinforcement over the shirred waist section.
Continue with the pattern directions to sew the elastic casing and finish the Mini-Nina top.
Now, for the fun….turn your top inside out, and use your steam iron to steam the elastic thread. It will shrink up and create some wonderful shirring for your dolly’s Mini-Nina!
You can download a PDF of this tutorial here.
Enjoy the varied looks of Nina. It should keep you just busy enough until the new Mini-Modkid patterns arrive later this fall!
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